MM6 Maison Margiela Returns to Pitti Uomo & Luxury Shares Rebound in This Week's Top Fashion News
In this week’s fashion headlines, the FW25 season arrived with newcomers debuting and familiar faces returning, luxury shares saw a boost following positive results, brands announced new chapters, and new diffusion lines were introduced.
MM6 Maison Margiela made a long-awaited return to the Pitti Uomo stage, as Kenzo announced details for their forthcoming presentations and the CFDA released its calendar for NYFW. Brands continue to double down on the Asia Pacific customer with Dior announcing a Pre-Fall presentation in Kyoto and Levi's unveiling its Japan-exclusive Blue Tab line. Richemont's holiday sales boosted the company's shares–as well as its competitors LVMH and Hermes, signaling a healthy outlook for 2025. Finally, Proenza Schouler is in search of a new artistic director, following the announcement of the founding design-duo's impending departure.
Below, Hypebeast has rounded up the top fashion stories of the week so you can stay up to date on trends in the industry.
MM6 Maison Margiela Presents FW25 at Pitti Uomo 107
On Wednesday evening, Florence's historic Giardino dell’Orticoltura was transformed into the glowing stage of MM6 Maison Margiela's FW25 presentation at Pitti Uomo 107. The botanical garden and antique greenhouse was adorned with stark white decor, referencing Maison Martin Margiela's famous 2006 "white-out" show.
Models circumnavigated the glass structure in sleek, tailored numbers characterized by a sensual androgyny. Highlights included starry prints, faux mink materials, lurex, modular gloves, and pagoda shoulders inspired by Miles Davis. Standing out among the looks was an aqua suit, which provided a bold pop of color. Infusing sharp menswear silhouettes with refined finishes, the collection served as a manifesto for a more complex masculinity that revels in fluidity.
Richemont Sales Surge 10% Triggering Boost for LVMH and Hermès Shares
In a report released on Thursday, French conglomerate Richemont revealed a 10% increase in sales during the three months ending at the New Year, a key period for luxury performance. Following a rocky end to 2024 which put most luxury brands on high alert, the positive news is a sign that the luxury market might be picking up again.
According to Business of Fashion, the US and European markets drove the boost with purchases focussed on fine jewelry from labels like Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, counterbalancing weaker than normal watch sales. Though sales continued to decline in Asia, most heavily in China, the results reportedly beat analysts’ expectations.
Along with boosting Richemont’s shares by 18%, the reports spread cheer across the luxury sector as top conglomerate LVMH gained as much as nearly 9% and Hermès International increased by 6%.
Dior Announces Pre-Fall Show in Ancient Kyoto Garden
Resuming the traveling runway strategy that brought the French house to Seoul, Mumbai and New York, Dior has confirmed that it will take its Pre-Fall 2025 runway show to Kyoto, Japan. According to WWD, the show will take place Kyoto’s ancient To-ji Temple and Gardens on April 15. The historic temple, named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1994, was established in 796 to serve as one of the two “guardian temples” protecting the former national capital.
The brand said in a statement provided to WWD that the show would offer “a tribute to the passion for this fascinating country cultivated by Christian Dior and his successors”, reflecting “a new chapter at the convergence of tradition and reinvention”.
CFDA Reveals New York Fashion Week FW25 Calendar
The Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) has revealed the preliminary calendar for February’s New York Fashion Week, featuring more than 54 runway shows and designer presentations for the Fall/Winter 2025 season.
Taking place from Thursday, February 6, to Tuesday, February 11, the program includes labels like Anna Sui, Carolina Herrera, Christian Siriano, Coach, Collina Strada, Diotima, Eckhaus Latta, Elena Velez, Khaite, Lafayette 148, LaQuan Smith, Luar, Sandy Liang, Sergio Hudson, Todd Snyder, Tory Burch, Zankov and more.
Additionally, Christopher John Rogers, Altuzarra, Calvin Klein Collection by Veronic Leoni, Fforme, and Theory appear on the calendar following skipped seasons. The highly-anticipated Thom Browne show will close the week with the final runway presentation on the evening of February 11.
Kenzo To Host Men's-Focused January Show & Separate Women's Show in March
Kenzo has announced a shift in its presentation style, focusing solely on menswear for its January 25 Paris show. Under Artistic Director Nigo, the brand will debut a dedicated Fall/Winter 2025 women’s show during Paris Women’s Fashion Week in March, citing the need to refine its women's offering. This move marks a bold new direction for Kenzo’s women’s line, supported by a newly formed creative team working alongside Nigo.
The change comes after three years of creative growth under Nigo’s leadership, in which he infused the brand with contemporary energy, while honoring its Japanese heritage. Known for founding label A Bathing Ape, Nigo became Kenzo’s first Japanese artistic director since 1999, when the founding designer stepped down.
Levi's Launches New Sophisticated Line of Denim, Blue Tab
Levi's is launching a new line of elevated denim staples called Blue Tab. The upscale, polished designs are positioned as a new experimental counterpart to the Orange Tab line, introducing pieces inspired by the brand's most iconic styles. Incorporating premium materials like chambray, selvage denim, and napped denim, the line blends modern textiles with Levi’s workwear design language. The collection includes pieces like the Marc Ruth Jacket, fishtail parka, Blue Tab™ Type I Jacket, chambray work jackets, and heavyweight t-shirts.
The brand officially launches in Japan on January 31.
Proenza Schouler Founders Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez Exit the Brand
After 22 years as the founding designers behind Proenza Schouler, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez will step down from their creative director roles, effective January 31. The duo will help CEO Shira Suveyke Snyder shape the next steps for the brand, remaining as minority shareholders and board members in the company.
In a statement, Hernandez said they are ready for new opportunities, valuing “risk-taking and a sense of adventure.” McCollough echoed this, emphasizing the carefully considered timing of their decision.
Known for infusing European timelessness into a New York-based brand, the designers have been linked to major fashion houses in the past, but their next steps remain undisclosed. Their departure has fueled speculation that they may replace Jonathan Anderson at Loewe, with Anderson rumored to be moving to Dior, though no official confirmations have been made.
Click here to view full gallery at Hypebeast
